White Hill, Nova Scotia. Highest Elevation in NS.
Any backcountry camping trip can be a humbling experience but, winter backcountry camping is a whole other beast. It teaches you the need for efficiency at everything you do. Wasted time means wasted energy and that means you get cold… fast. You need to take care of the small things so they don’t compound into major issues. So as much as you think you’ve mastered your kit and preparation, mother nature will literally throw that upside down and make you start again until you are a well-oiled, efficient, machine… I mean it’s either that or you freeze. That is the true beauty of it all.
Backcountry route through the Highlands
So, you might be thinking “Who in their right mind would volunteer for something like that?”. The answer is, more people than you think.
We just completed our most recent ‘Cross the Highlands Expedition’ which is a 5-day, 57km (+/-) snowshoe trip traversing the Cape Breton Highlands National Park (CBHNP). We left from the Franey Mountain Trail to the west crossing over the highest elevation in Nova Scotia; White Hill. For people unfamiliar with the area, the CBHNP is located in the northern part of Cape Breton Island and is circled by the famous Cabot Trail. The park, and Cape Breton in general, is known for its iconic hikes like the Skyline Trail and Franey Mountain, however, for us locals, we know it as one hell of a backcountry destination. A place where you feel like you are on another planet miles away from any form of civilization. Places you won’t find in any tourism brochure or website (except ours ;)), and that comes with fabled stories of snowdrifts the size of two-story houses matched with unrelenting winds that will leave you begging for warmer weather. You might be like ‘Lee, what are you smoking… this does not exist in NS!’. Let me tell you, it does and it is scary and glorious at the same time.
Backcountry snowshoeing in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.
As kids, we would search out these places by looking at maps and dream up, what we thought were mighty epic adventures. These days they don’t hold as much grandeur as they once did but what I’ve come to realize is that I enjoy sharing that same experience I had when I was a kid with others who are into Type 2 (sometimes 3) fun and one epic adventure. Don’t get me wrong, leading groups through some of the harshest weather you can find in our province isn’t an easy thing to do for any guide. We learn just as much from the people joining us on these adventures as they do off of us. Each trip poses its own set of challenges which forces us to adapt and overcome as a group and this last trip was no different.
Below are my actual logbook entries while I was on this trip. I may have changed a few words so that things made sense for the reader (or I couldn't understand my own handwriting).
Winter camping trip Cape Breton Island
Day 1 - Franey Mountain Saddle - 11.7km
Left the Inverary Resort with a 9 person crew. Alec Lefort led the group, Emily Mackay, Kanary, Mike Bardsley, Gaia Ash, Gorden Collinet, Sara David, and Hillary Tatock. This will be the first guided trip over the highlands since 2020. Experiences like these are something we’ve been working at opening to the public for a very long time and were unsure if it would work but it did and here we are!
We left @ 1000hrs from the Franey Mountain Trail Head and made great time. About 2km/hr with breaks. Made it to camp at 1645hrs. Lots of snowmobile tracks back here and lots of trash left on the saddle. Alec packed out. Feels like -12 ish out and supposed to be getting rain tonight which means a late start tomorrow.
Luckily the only water crossing we had considering all of the rain in the previous week.
Day 2 - Wed Feb, 24 - Safety Shelter - 11k
The day started in a bit of a shit show. We got hit by high winds from the south compounded with some tents not properly tied down. Could have been a very bad situation.
Note to self: Start doing campsite inspections, especially on night one to help tighten the crew up.
We had a late start and left camp @ 1120hrs. Covered 2k heading towards White Hill with more high winds and rain. Made the call to head to the safety shelter to get crew dried out before temp drops overnight. This call may add an extra day to the trip or may force us to change the original route unless we choose to push hard and pull at least one 20k day if not two. Alpine start tomorrow. Let’s get after it.
Day 3 - Thurs Feb, 24 - White Hill - 14k
Left camp in a complete snowstorm @ 0900. So much for alpine start. Made it to White Hill by 1145. Very strong gusts blowing people over almost the whole morning to White Hill. We pushed 14k to camp and still a lot more to do to make up for the detour yesterday. I’m cold as F*** and can barely write this entry.
Day 4 - Friday, Feb, 25 - West of The Pinnacle - 17km
One of the only moments of clear blue skies.
Definitely had stage 1 Hypothermia last night and almost all day today. Not used to taking the rear and did not wear enough layers or drink enough water yesterday. Luckily Alec pointed this out to me. I didn't realize I was in it until I was running circles just to try to get warm when I should have been sweating. Slammed liquids into me all day and feel better now.
We made good time in the barrens today. Missed our rendezvous with Mac* at the original campsite 3 due to our detour. Made it to the North Cheticamp River but it was impassable due to all of the rain in the recent week. May have to change our route and exit on French Mountain. Will know in am.
*Mac was another guide who came to meet the group on day 3.
Day 5 - Saturday, Feb, 26 - Exit on French Mountain
Had a much better sleep last night since I slammed liquids into me but am still feeling some of the effects of Hypothermia. I still have an issue with sweating but not cold all the time. We had a slow start and pack down today. Actually got two cups of coffee this morning which was nice. Alec and I made the call to push north to find a crossing and exit on French Mountain. Every Km north we go is two more Km to our original exit point. We left camp around 1000hrs and headed north. Made two small river crossings and took bearings to a weather station 2km from Skyline Trail. We hit the Cabot Trail @ 1440 and started walking towards Skyline to make the pick-up rendezvous of 1500hrs. Everyone did extremely well and watching the growth in the group during this trip was a pleasure. Now we drink and eat some non-cook-in-bag food.
Written by: Lee Fraser
Check out our podcast we recorded the night we got out of the woods. Hear from everyone who did the trip with us and why they chose to push themselves through these 5-days!
AFTERWORD
Let me be the first to tell the reader that I am a true believer in the fact that anyone, with the will to push themselves, is capable of doing trips such as these. Gaining experience for any winter camping or backpacking trip is as easy as camping in your backyard or somewhere accessible to test out gear and how things work for you. It’s also about preparing the proper gear for the job at hand. If you have any questions about gear or recommendations on what to bring with you on winter backpacking trips feel free to reach out anytime. If you would like to join any of our multi-day expeditions please sign up for our newsletter to be the first to be notified of all upcoming dates and adventures.
[PARKS CANADA DISCLAIMER]
Parks Canada backcountry permits are needed for any backcountry trip within the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. If you need any advice or information on how to apply for a permit please get in touch with us and we will forward you to the proper channels.
Any backcountry trip, especially within the Cape Breton Highlands should be done with previous backcountry experience. If you would like advice, join one of our trips or, hire a guide for private adventure, do not hesitate to contact us.